Guest Post: Lost Cat Recovery Tips

Hello readers,

A lot of you may have had that stomach churning experience when your cat is going missing. We had an incident a year ago when Nubia decided that she wanted to be outside. Luckily she turned up a few days later. Not every ending is so happy. And as with everything in life, prevention is the best course of action. In today’s post we’re delighted to have some tips on how to prevent this from Missing Pet Partnership MPP in conjunction with Kim Freeman, the Cat Detective who’s based in Texas, United States of America.

Kim Freeman, the Lost Cat Finder, always sees an increase in lost cat cases around the holidays.

lostcatfinder

With the general chaos of guests coming and going, kids leaving doors open and other holiday accidents, make sure your cat is safe and you’re ready should the worst happen.

Cats are harder to recover than dogs and require special techniques beyond flyers on posts and a visit to the shelter. Would you know what to do if a pet sitter or visitor left a door open and your cat escaped?

Take these steps to prevent your cat from ever going missing. This emergency situation can happen to even the best and most careful owners.

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LEARN YOUR CAT’S HABITS
Get to know when your cat sleeps, what hours they are the most active, and note whether they prefer to be up in high places or down low. All this will be useful info should your cat ever get out. If you move, make sue to keep your cat in for at least two weeks no matter how much they may protest. After that time, you can let them out but go with them as a chaperone and take not on which way they go out the door, how they behave, where they seek cover, and what direction they are most likely to take. Practice petting them while they are out so they will let you approach them without fear and give them a treat so they do not associate you with a prison warden. Get them used to being picked up and put back down, then later, coming to you when you call or make a special clicking sound. Be a chaperone when they go out for at least a week and make them comfortable with you as a fellow adventurer so they do not run from you.

HAVE THE SEARCH ZONE READY
If you have an indoor- only cat, be ready with a map of where to search. With indoor cats who escape, they are most often hiding within a 250-foot radius of the escape point. Outdoor access cats have a larger territory, so they are going to be usually within a 500-foot radius. Use this mapping tool to outline your home area and search circle so you are ready if they get out.

SAFE TRANSPORT
This sounds basic, but you’d be surprised how many pet owners put their cats at risk. A cat inside a car can escape when involved in a traffic accident, or jump out prematurely when a door is opened (see the case of this cat slipping out at gas station at night). Cat carriers have been known to break open during traffic accidents, in vet parking lots, and on conveyor belts at airports. No matter how crabby your cat becomes with confinement, make sure you transport him/her in a secure carrier.

HAVE PHOTOS READY
Keep a recent photo of your cat on hand showing their face and body markings in case you need the photo for a lost cat flyer and poster.

PREPARE A LOST CAT KIT
Store photos, microchip number and a mock-up lost cat flyer where they’re easy to access. Should you ever need them, this kit will save you precious time and stress. The best preparation is to at least skim the ebook and video “How to Find a Lost Cat” so you can swing into action immediately and know the appropriate steps for your situation and the common mistakes to avoid (like putting out food or cat litter).

GPS TRACKER
A new device we’ve had good reports on that lets you know on your phone where your cat is at all times. This is good not only if your cat is indoor only and gets out, but also for those adventurous cats who like to roam, but you need to know where they are in case they miss a meal. The “Nuzzle” is in development, but the device below shows the area and your cat’s time and date. There are several devices on the market including the Loca8ur but based on my clients’ lost cats, I’ve found that this one seems to be the best in terms of finding a cat’s exact location:

COLLAR & MICROCHIP
Even if you never let your cat out, you never know when an emergency will happen and your cat is lost. A visitor may leave the door open, cat carriers can break, a visitor could leave a window open or a burglar could break into your home, leaving the door open for your cat to escape outside. Paramedics could have to go to your or a relative’s home, and leave the door open during an emergency procedure.

We’vee even seen pets ejected from cars in traffic accidents. Most people never think these events are all unlikely. But even indoor-only cats should wear a collar, tag and microchip because if they escape outside, they’re at risk of ultimately ending up in an animal shelter long after you have stopped searching.

Use a breakaway collar or a stretchy cat collar with Velcro that a cat can back out of if it becomes snagged.

Micro-chipping is equivalent to implanting a serial number in your pet as a means to return property to their rightful owner. Microchips are not GPS trackers they are for Identification, detectable with a microchip scanner used by shelters, veterinarians, and rescue groups. Make sure your cat is micro-chipped and especially make sure that chip is registered to YOU at your CURRENT address and phone number.

PROOF OF OWNERSHIP
Be able to demonstrate proof that you own your cat, as there is no guarantee the person who finds your pet will be willing to give it back to you. You will need to have something to show an officer to prove that this animal belongs to you. The best method to show proof of ownership is to have your pet microchipped. Check with your local shelter, rescue groups, and veterinarians to have this simple procedure performed (a shot where a microchip the size of a rice grain is implanted under your pet’s skin). If your pet has any special markings, markings inside their mouth, scars, tattoos, etc., photograph these areas and keep these photos in a special location with your cat’s vet records.

KEEP PHOTOS WITH YOUR VET
It is a good idea to keep a set of records and current pet photos with your veterinarian (they can be attached to your pet’s file). This way, your pet’s photo will be available should your home be destroyed (during fire or flood) or if the photos you kept at home get lost or destroyed.

THANKSGIVING, NEW YEAR’S EVE AND JULY 4TH
There are the main days of the year when your cat is especially at risk of escaping. Put your cat in a safe room with all creature comforts and lots of places to hide and blankets to drown out noise and keep them feeling safe from the sounds of fireworks parties and strangers.

BE NEIGHBORLY
Make sure your neighbors know you have a cat whether your cat is indoor only or outdoor access. That way, if your cat ever escapes they will know who it belongs to and will be more likely to rescue and return it to you when they see it. Also, being a good neighbor will increase the chances that your neighbors will be your friends when your pet becomes lost. If your cat routinely roams and stalks birds or poops on your neighbor’s property, make sure you have preempted any complaints by asking neighbors to let you know if your cat is a problem for them in any way. Be a responsible cat owner.

another lost cat found pet detective Fiona

SECURE YOUR PROPERTY
Check carefully along perimeter of your fence for spaces or holes that you can fit a hand or fist into. Cats can get through tiny spaces, so add rocks or pack dirt to close them up. You’ll prevent your cat’s potential escape, as well as keep other critters from popping under for a visit. For those who let their cats out into the backyard, be warned; I’ve had many cases of cats who “always stayed in the backyard” yet vanished. Cats can jump five times their height, so unless you have secured the holes AND have a catio or roll-top fence, your cat may unpleasantly surprise you with ninja escape abilities.

Look carefully from a low level: push on all boards to see if any are loose. Humans typically look downward and don’t see what our pets see. Pets have the time and interest to look, poke, and push in their efforts to escape. From their level, they may have found a small hole or loose board you did not see.

Remove any items leaning on or next to your fence. Woodpiles, garbage containers, kid toys, boxes, etc. next to a fence are a great springboard for cats to get over any fence, so make sure you are not offering an easy route out.

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TRAIN YOUR CAT to come when you call, let you pick him up when outside and to enter a baited humane trap. Humane traps are one of the primary tools to recover an indoor-only cat. If you know that your cat will never be allowed free access out- doors, then teach your cat that humane traps = food and safety.

Simply get a humane trap (available here) and prop open both ends with a bungee cord and feed your cat inside the trap every day for a week until he enters and leaves without fear. If your cat should ever escape outdoors, you will increase your chances of recovery as your cat associates traps with food and is not afraid to enter. DO NOT train your cat to enter a trap if you live in an apartment complex in case the manager or a pest company sets up traps to remove feral cats.

COLLECT AND STORE SCENT & DNA
In the event your cat becomes lost and you need an animal trained to track lost pets, you’ll want to have a clean unadulterated sample of your pet’s scent. Save whiskers especially as they have a root attached which can be used to determine DNA. If no whiskers are available, put on a rubber glove, use a sterile gauze pad and wipe your pet’s body – wipe back, tummy, and mouth. Place the gauze pad inside a plastic bag. Write the date and your pet’s name on the outside of the bag. Try to have your cat’s DNA on hand in case it’s needed for making a positive ID. Collect a whisker, toenail clippings, and a few hairs that you have pulled from your pet which include the root. Shed hairs will not do– you need the root (which contains the DNA). Place all of these AND your gauze pad into the bag and place the bag in the back of your freezer. If you have multiple pets, make separate bags for each of them.

BIRD ALERTS
Should your cat ever escape, listen to the birds. They will issue raucous alarm sounds to let others know there is a predator in the area. Even if you just want to know where your outdoor acess cat is at the moment, learn to listen to bird language to know when your cat has been spotted by these air spies. Blue jays and mockingbirds are very vocal when they spot a cat and make a specific call you can learn and tune into. Examples of bird alarms on cats are included in the ebook, How to Find a Lost Cat as well as a chapter on tracking, coyote signs and clue assessment.

webKimberly Freeman-9989-Edit

Kim FreemanHenry Car SIgn300
“The Cat Detective”

Facebook Lost Cat recovery stories

 

Thank you Kim for sharing your helpful tips. We look forward to Part 2 where you’ll cover what to do if your beloved kitty actually escapes. 

If you want to send in your cat-based stories or articles just drop us an email at info@katzenworld.co.uk. Don’t forget to include some pictures. If you’re not yet subscribed to our Newsletter, click here.

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18 thoughts on “Guest Post: Lost Cat Recovery Tips

  1. Thanks for this post. There are many good points here. I had a cat disappear for 3 weeks once. She was a little skinny but otherwise fine. She ate and slept for several days and wasn’t as keen to slip out the window after that. Our current cat, Monkey, wants to go out in the worst way, but has only escaped a couple of times, coming back to the sound of her treats cup shaking!

    1. Our late tabby cat loved the sound of her kibbles box being shaken and came home for that when she was near enough to hear it. She sometimes went to the farm next door though. My actual cats have no access to the outdoor world – but my Kessy loves her treats – maybe a little less than Musch loved her kibbles – but I would defo try it with that.

  2. Great advice! I once heard that if your cat gets out, you can put their litter box outside – apparently this makes it easier for them to find their way home… have never tried this tip, but I keep it in mind.

      1. The litter box method is a myth. Might as well leave a sack of potatoes on your porch. Smelly kitty litter bas been know to attract bully cats, nosy dogs and even coyotes. Don’t litter.

  3. Great post, I hope this never happens though. One time I let Polar Bear out on a leash and he got scared and slipped away. I thought he was gone forever- he is deaf so I couldn’t just call for him. I found him an hour later in the window well, I thought he had run far away.

  4. Vital info to share!! Everyone should know that cats rarely actually go more than a few blocks beyond their home, and leaving food out for them is often the best way for them to come back. But as a rescue volunteer, the #1 thing I’d advise is definitely to microchip and keep up with having your address/info current with the company. It’s the best way to get a cat back if the kitty ends up at a vet clinic or rescue. That said, hopefully everyone knows that the safest cat is an indoor cat. It’s a terrible feeling when you realize you have lost your cat…post flyers immediately and canvas your neighbors right away. Most people who see a cat outside, assume they are supposed to be out there, and don’t think to try and help, but if a neighbor knows you are looking for your cat, it’s different. Anyway, fabulous post.

  5. Thank you. How do I recover cats that were taken. 12/19 & 12/23??
    Brother & sister. Pet psychic told me they’re in two different homes. Any advice.? They were not microchiped. Linda

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